解密「咖啡處理法」(processing)

解密「咖啡處理法」(processing)

為什麼咖啡漿果需要「處理」?

咖啡豆並不是生來就是褐色的硬豆。在採收時,它是長在樹上的紅色果實(Coffee Cherry),結構類似櫻桃:最外層是果皮,中間是果肉與黏稠的果膠層(Mucilage),最核心才是我們想要種子——咖啡生豆

處理法存在的目的只有兩個,卻至關重要:

  1. 種子保存: 剛採摘的漿果含水量極高,若不處理會迅速腐爛發霉。我們必須去除果肉並將種子乾燥至含水量 10-12%,才能長期保存與運輸。

  2. 風味雕塑: 在去除果肉與乾燥的過程中,種子會與果肉、果膠甚至微生物通過發酵發生微妙的化學反應,這些反應直接決定了咖啡最終的酸度、甜度與醇度。

三大主流處理法:風味的魔術師

在精品咖啡的世界裡,最常見的三種處理法分別是:水洗(Washed)日曬(Natural)蜜處理(Honey)。它們的操作邏輯不同,帶來的風味光譜也截然不同。

1. 水洗法 (Washed Process) —— 純淨透亮的極致

這是最能展現咖啡豆「本質風味」的方法。

  • 如何運作:

    1. 去果皮: 機器去除果皮與果肉。

    2. 發酵去除果膠: 將帶殼豆放入水槽發酵(約 18-36 小時),利用微生物分解黏稠的果膠層。

    3. 清洗: 用大量清水將分解後的果膠洗淨。

    4. 乾燥: 曬乾或機器烘乾至標準含水量。

  • 風味特徵 水洗豆最大的特徵就是「乾淨」。它通常酸值明亮、層次分明,能夠清晰地展現該產區與品種的風味(例如肯亞的莓果酸、巴拿馬藝伎的花香)。口感通常較輕盈,像茶一般的精緻。

2. 日曬法 (Natural / Dry Process) —— 狂野奔放的熱情

這是最古老的處理方式,近年來隨著技術精進,成為許多追求甜感與特殊風味愛好者的首選。

  • 如何運作:

    1. 全果乾燥: 採收後保留完整的果皮與果肉,直接鋪在棚架(Raised Beds)上日曬。

    2. 翻動: 工人需頻繁翻動漿果以防發霉,乾燥過程長達 2-4 週。

    3. 去殼: 待果乾變黑變硬後,再用機器一次去除果皮、果肉與羊皮層。

  • 風味特徵 由於種子長時間與充滿糖分的果肉接觸,日曬豆擁有較高的甜度(Sweetness)醇度(Body)。風味會帶有強烈的熱帶水果、發酵酒香(Winey)或果醬感。

3. 蜜處理 (Honey Process) —— 平衡的甜蜜點

蜜處理與蜂蜜無關,而是指保留在豆子上的黏稠果膠層(Mucilage)在乾燥過程中質地像蜂蜜。這是一種介於水洗與日曬之間的折衷藝術。

  • 如何運作:

    1. 去皮保留果膠: 去除果皮,但刻意保留一定比例的果膠層。

    2. 乾燥: 帶著果膠進行曝曬。

    • 根據保留果膠的厚度與乾燥時間長短,又細分為白蜜(果膠少)、黃蜜紅蜜黑蜜(果膠多、時間長)。

  • 風味特徵 蜜處理擁有水洗法的乾淨酸值,同時具備日曬法的甜美餘韻。一般來說,顏色越深(如黑蜜),風味越接近日曬(甜度高、口感黏稠);顏色越淺(如白蜜),越接近水洗(清爽)。

新浪潮的實驗處理法

如果你是咖啡迷,你一定聽過 「厭氧發酵」(Anaerobic Fermentation)「二氧化碳浸漬」(Carbonic Maceration)

這些受釀酒工藝啟發的方法,是將咖啡果實放入密閉容器中,透過控制氧氣、溫度與壓力,強迫酵母進行特定的代謝路徑。

  • 風味特徵: 這類咖啡通常帶有極度強烈、特殊的香氣,如肉桂、泡泡糖、優格甚至香料味。雖然評價兩極,但它們確實拓展了咖啡風味的邊界。

下一次去咖啡店時,如果有的話,試著點同一款豆子的不同處理法。你會發現,明明是同一個品種與產地,通過處理法與烘焙,竟然可以呈現出兩種截然不同的風味。

而精品咖啡的迷人之處,正是在這些細節裡。

 

Coffee beans are not born as hard, brown seeds. At harvest, they are bright red fruits growing on trees, known as coffee cherries. Their structure is similar to that of a cherry: an outer skin, followed by flesh and a sticky mucilage layer, with the seed we want — the green coffee bean — at the very centre.

Coffee processing exists for just two reasons, both absolutely essential:

Preservation of the seed:
Freshly picked cherries contain a very high level of moisture. Without processing, they would quickly rot or grow mould. By removing the fruit layers and drying the seeds to a moisture content of around 10–12%, the coffee can be safely stored and transported.

Shaping flavour:
During the removal of the fruit and the drying stage, the seed interacts with the flesh, mucilage and even microorganisms through fermentation. These subtle chemical reactions directly determine the coffee’s final acidity, sweetness and body.

The three main processing methods: the magicians of flavour

In the world of specialty coffee, the three most common processing methods are Washed, Natural, and Honey. Each follows a different logic and produces a distinctly different flavour spectrum.

Washed Process — clarity and purity at its finest

This method is considered the best at showcasing a coffee’s intrinsic character.

How it works:

  • Depulping: Machines remove the skin and most of the flesh.

  • Fermentation: The parchment coffee is placed in water tanks for around 18–36 hours, allowing microorganisms to break down the sticky mucilage.

  • Washing: Clean water is used to rinse away the decomposed mucilage.

  • Drying: The beans are sun-dried or mechanically dried to the target moisture level.

Flavour profile:
The hallmark of washed coffee is cleanliness. Acidity is bright and well-defined, with clear flavour separation that highlights origin and variety — such as Kenya’s berry-like acidity or the floral elegance of Panamanian Geisha. The body is usually lighter, with a refined, tea-like mouthfeel.

Natural / Dry Process — bold, expressive and untamed

This is the oldest processing method and, thanks to improved techniques, has become a favourite among those seeking sweetness and distinctive flavours.

How it works:

  • Whole-cherry drying: The freshly harvested cherries are dried intact, with skin and flesh on, typically on raised beds.

  • Turning: Workers regularly turn the cherries to prevent mould. Drying can take 2–4 weeks.

  • Hulling: Once fully dried, machines remove the hardened skin, flesh and parchment in one step.

Flavour profile:
Because the seed remains in contact with sugar-rich fruit for an extended period, natural coffees tend to have higher sweetness and body. Flavours often include ripe tropical fruit, wine-like notes, or jammy richness.

Honey Process — the sweet spot of balance

Despite its name, the honey process has nothing to do with actual honey. The term refers to the sticky mucilage left on the bean during drying, which takes on a honey-like texture. It is an elegant compromise between washed and natural processing.

How it works:

  • Depulping with mucilage retained: The skin is removed, but a controlled amount of mucilage is left on the bean.

  • Drying: The beans are dried with the mucilage still attached.

Depending on how much mucilage is retained and how long the drying lasts, honey processing is further classified as White, Yellow, Red, or Black Honey.

Flavour profile:
Honey-processed coffees combine the clean acidity of washed coffees with the lingering sweetness of naturals. Generally, the darker the honey (such as Black Honey), the closer it leans towards natural processing — higher sweetness and a heavier mouthfeel. Lighter honeys (such as White Honey) are closer to washed coffees, with a fresher, cleaner profile.

Experimental processing in the new wave

If you are a coffee enthusiast, you have likely heard of Anaerobic Fermentation or Carbonic Maceration.

Inspired by winemaking, these methods place coffee cherries in sealed containers, where oxygen, temperature and pressure are carefully controlled to force yeast into specific metabolic pathways.

Flavour profile:
These coffees often display extremely intense and unusual aromas — cinnamon, bubblegum, yoghurt, or spice-like notes are not uncommon. Opinions are divided, but there is no doubt that these techniques have expanded the boundaries of what coffee can taste like.

Next time you visit a café, if the option is available, try ordering the same coffee variety processed in different ways. You may be surprised to discover that the same origin and cultivar can taste completely different simply through processing and roasting.

That is precisely where the fascination of specialty coffee lies — in the details.